Cycle Tuscany – Day 5
Fabro to Civita Castellana
I have stayed in castles before, but as hotels. This was a lovely, friendly bed and breakfast that you just would not have expected to find anywhere else but in Italy.
Down the slope into Fabro, east across the valley, then you turn south and hit the first good climb of the day up to Ficulle.
Next is a lovely descent through Bagni and down towards Orvieto, then flat along the valley. The small hill up to Baschi is worth it, as the bar in the centre does great ice-creams, and across the road is a water fountain to fill up your bottles.
This is used by many local cyclists, especially at weekends.
You follow the Fiume Tevere south through rural landscapes including lots of vineyards. Then, if you can make it up the hill, try lunch at Penna In Teverina.
Descend down to the valley again, then across the river to Orte before a stiff climb and some interesting rural roads.
Otre is worth cycling through and stopping to do something many Italians don’t do…
When the railway was built, Orte was a stop between Rome and Florence, but the train station is a couple of miles down the road in Otre Scalo, and the passengers thought that the few houses there was the whole of Orte, so it was never thought of as somewhere worth visiting – they were mistaken.
The roads here for a while are a bit rough, but there is a farm on the way, so stop and knock on their door, they will enjoy the company and you can fill your water bottles.
Then through Gallese, Corchiano and Pantalone to Civita Castellana.
This is a typical little village with a fantastic 4 star hotel near the centre, Palace Hotel Relais Falisco – if you catch the right time of year you can get a fantastic deal.