Cycle the Alps – Day 3
Malles Venosta to Bolzano
Distance
Total Ascent
Highest Point
Overview
Our first stop was just down the road in a village called Glorenza (or Glurns). This had been recommended to us as ‘the best coffee in Italy’ – a bold statement, but I imagine it was pretty near the mark.
In this part of Italy the dominant language is German, so the hotel was called Hotel Gasthof Grüner Baum, but it is also known as Albergo Albero Verde (Green Tree Hotel). It was strange for us to experience German being spoken in Italy, and it goes back to the beginning of the 20th Century when South Tirol was part of Austria.
The path out of Glorenza was lovely, a tarmac cycle path following the fast flowing river, Fiume Adige, and although descending, it was still hard work to keep up a good pace and not miss any of the wonderful scenery.
We passed a few people on roller skis, training for the winter ski season. Then we found a lovely bar by a lake and as I sipped my beer I wondered what it would be like if I trained that hard…
The path went through acres of apple trees, and then on the side of the path was a self-service juice stop, where you help yourself to drinks and pay into an honesty box.
The ride down towards Merano was very steep, winding and slow, but easy on the legs. Just outside Merano was a restaurant brewery called Braugarten Giardino Forst. Good local food and beer in a great atmosphere – and still very much German speaking.
The steep hill out was not expected and quite unwelcome after such a large lunch, but the scenery was still fantastic. The path took us through a few small villages with apple groves and vineyards, and the snow-capped mountains both sides.
We arrived into Bolzano, and after a quick shower we were ready to eat, so we wandered into the old town and found a restaurant called Paulaner Stuben; yet again good food and great value.
